A Rainy Day at the Beach

The clouds approaching 

My cousin and sister in the water

I had a wonderful day at the village today. It started as business as usual sleep to nine, which is really late by Samoan standards. Get up and eat the breakfast that had been laid out for me and was hence cold. They family are all going about their business and Im the last to stir. I usually have toast and fresh fruit with a cup of tea. Then I wash my face brush my teeth and get ready for my day. Which at times seems redundant, as I may not leave the house depending on how busy my family is. I’m not really allowed to do anything on my own yet so I really only get to explore when my sisters chores are done and she can escort me. Then I come into my room make my bed and tidy up before settling down with my laptop and right my blog for the day. Then I usually come out and socialize or if I’m lucky go for a walk, after that its usually reading till lunchtime. After lunch its malolo time which means either a nap or more reading. Then in the afternoons stuff really gets exciting. Some days I go play volleyball or other days I go for a swim in the ocean, and sometimes I get to go for a evening walk which is always lovely as the sun is going down and is gorgeous. I have been trying to help out more during the day but my tasks are pretty limited they will let me watch then work and sometimes if Im sneaky or really insist they let me do some things. I have so far been about to fold about ten shirts, wash maybe five dishes and take down half a load of laundry. They usually catch me mid task and then insist that I sit down and I take over. I figure if I keep up the pestering they will eventually let me do more. It’s a bit embarrassing for a guest to be seen doing chores so I try not to push too hard or when others are watching. Today was different though we finished lunch and my host uncle told me to go put on my bathing suit, we were driving across the mountain to go to the nice beach. It had been raining heavily and this meant that the mountain streams would be swollen and rushing to meet the sea. The very best place to play on the beach is where the stream merges. We took the gorgeous drive over the mountain crossing several roads that were flooded until we reached one that the water was so deep we couldn’t cross, so it was back over the mountain to go to one of the beaches on our side. It turned out to be a wonderful change of plan. We picked a little peninsula jutting out of the cover a couple towns over from Samatau. It’s a little beach fale area and the beach had a little lava rock sea wall. My host uncle my older sister and my cousin and I were quick to jump in. The water was lovely, not cold and not hot just right. We could see all the way around the side of the island. Before swam for a while then we saw the clouds approaching. You could see the thick blanket of rain hitting the sea from where we were miles away. I though we would leave but looking around it seemed everyone was pretty calm about this huge storm speeding our way. So I laid back and waited for the dark to descend. Oh and it did. It was a torrential down pour with fat raindrops that hit you like pellets. I could only see about ten feet in front me but the water was only three feet deep and no waves get past the reefs surrounding my side of the island so we were pretty safe. This is when my uncle decided it was time I learn how to play rugby. So here I was playing touch rugby with a flip flop in the middle of the ocean with a huge storm raging, it was spectacular. After a couple rounds we collapsed in the water from exhaustion and floated for a wile. Then the most wonderful thing happened. From this new attack of rain somewhere down the coast some river must have gotten a new burst of life because all of a sudden there was a flow of very cold water streaming down right by the beach. It was fantastic; it had little leaves and twigs in it tell the story of it’s journey down the mountain. The freezing fresh water floated on the surface of the sea water, so if you sat just right you could have your body in warm sea water and the cold water streaming over the back of your neck and catching it with your fingers and toes. I could have sat there for hours. I just kept closing my ears and thinking of all the times I have swam in the North Sea in Scotland. The water from the stream felt just like it. In my head I was half way across the world but I was soon called back to reality as my sister had gotten us a coconut and it was time for a snack. It was a wonderful day and I can’t wait for people to come visit me so I can share these little day to day miracles with them.

Christmas Day

It’s really hard to describe how I feel today. It such a mix of emotions, as it is with everything here. I woke up to a text message from my mother and immediately text her back and told her to call me. It was wonderful to hear there voices and I could picture everything perfectly. I knew my sisters would have gotten up early to open their stockings, which would be stuffed with makeup, panties, and jewelry. Then they would run down stairs and look at the tree with all of the prezies underneath before jumping in bed with my parents. My parents do a stocking for each other and they usually open then with us girls in the bed with them, then we reopen our stockings in front of them to share all our joy offer the new goodies. Then it would be up to shower and clean up… no presents until rooms were tidy, breakfast was eaten, and everyone was dressed for the day (with time we have pushed this rule a bit). Then into the living room that would be full of color and good smells. The fire would be burning and the dogs yapping away with all the excitement. There would be glasses of champagne with strawberries and a Christmas cheers. There would be Christmas decorations everywhere strewn with my mother’s signature fairies and goblins. Christmas in my house has always been a playground for the fantastical. Then the mayhem of presents would begin and against all logic it seems that the amount just seems to get bigger every year no matter what age we are. Then we would do fashion shows in the living room and eventually haul our loot upstairs and lay it out in our rooms to admire to days later when my mother would insist we put it away. Some years we go see a movie; some times we just open up the bottles of wine early and curl up at home, usually watching National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation. It could tell this year was no different the joy and spirit touched me all the way across the ocean. The best part of Christmas had always been to share it with them so contemplating open the presents they had sent me on my own in my room, was the most horrible prospect. Thankfully I didn’t have to, we stuck to tradition and I got to open my presents with my family thanks to a little technological help. With speakerphone used on both ends I could share my joy with them as I opened beautiful tops, jewelry, and some fun makeup. All I’m told are to be reserved for went I’m in town and are designed to make me feel good and get me in to some trouble. I think I will have no problem. It was a wonderful memory and I’m so glad I got to have a little bit of Christmas here in Samoa. It was very hard, on both sides, to know that they were altogether going through our rituals with out me. We all knew that I was there in spirit and it gave me so much joy to know they were together having so much fun. I can’t wait to do Christmas all together in New Zealand together; the plans are already in motion.

Samoan Weddings and Christmas Eve

Christmas Eve program

Bridesmaids 

The cake

This guys was at the wedding and I almost cried again

the wedding presents

My sister

Yesterday I got to go to my first Samoan Wedding and got a really cool perspective of it the couple getting married are in my young adults bible study at church and my sister and the other girls from the group were the bridesmaids. I have only been with the group a couple times but they are the closest things I have to friends my own age here in Samatau. I woke up to find seven girls in my living room getting their hair and make up done. I promptly wheeled out the little supplies I had and pitched in. It was so fun to see these girls who never put on make up and rarely do more then put their hair in bun, get all gussied up. My new host mother is a seamstress and had made all the bridesmaids gowns, they were maroon with cream sashes. As my sister was busy my usual excort was booked and my little sister was just as uncomfortable and unsure as I was. We headed for the church, which was decked out to the nines, flowers, silk drapes, and lots of traditional Samoan fine mats. The place was packed, probably close to three hundred people were there. I lost my sister and ended up floating with no idea where to sit. I made my was to the front were the choir sits, some of the few people I know. I hadn’t been formally introduced to the village so most people thought I was either some weird visitor or some ones lost family member. I eventually sat in the seats behind the choir but not before sitting down where the groom’s family sits and them being asked to move. It is these moments when I realize, no wonder I’m treated like a child I cant go five minutes on my own with out making a mistake. The ceremony soon got started and my embarrassment was washed away, it happens so often you start to recover quickly. It was a wonderful ceremony and actually very western. The only big difference was that the bridesmaids, grooms men and the actually couple had chairs to sit on during parts of the service. The couple even did the “you may kiss the bride” which is the first time I have ever seen a Samoan couple kiss, ever. P.D.A. is strictly taboo, even holding hands is a no-no, and you usually avoid eye contact with the opposite sex as it can be seen as an invitation. This part did seem to come into play as neither the bride or groom really looked at each other. It was almost as if two strangers were getting married, but I knew from others they had been dating for years and were the villages golden couple. After the wedding my little sister found me and we walked to the reception in the field in front of the school a couple of houses over. There were three huge tents and a gorgeous heart shaped contraption that held maybe ten tiers of wedding cake. The tables had peanuts, chips, apples, oranges, and soda waiting for the guests. These things are not commonplace here and it was a treat to have. There was a lot of speeches and some dancing by the bride and groom but not as a couple, the guests just kind of watched as they hopped around individually and then the older ladies would take turns dancing too and kissing the couple. Then they started taking the tiers of the cake and handing them out to the Matai and important men and some women of the village. I was tucked in the back table with my sister on our own feeling a little vulnerable already as it was Christmas eve, my father’s birthday, and I was in a very awkward situation. Then totally out of the blue the man calls out that a tier of the cake will go to the Peace Corp. I started tearing up immediately. I was being acknowledged and honored in front of the whole village. It was a wonderful moment and I know it went along way to establish my place here. Then to put a cherry on top I wasn’t served a regular meal like everyone else I got the special platter that they give to the chiefs as well. Lets just say there were some more tears hastily swiped away. No one really ate their meal at the wedding it was all packaged up and carried home. So then it was time for a nap before the evening service. The service was great and with my acknowledgement from the wedding I had a lot of smiling faces and hellos. My neighbor girls and I sat in the front and watched the spectacular talents of the Samatau Christian Community Church. They had been practicing all week and had pulled two all-nighters trying to get everything together. There were dances, singing, and skits. It was very entertaining even though I couldn’t understand any of what was being said, and fyi American Best Dance Crew is very popular here and it showed in the young boys dances. It was a wonderful evening and when the show was over instead of heading straight out as I usually did I went on to the stage to with the performers well as many other were. I knew a lot of them from the bible and then some form the wedding. It was the first time that I had people to seek out and others were seeking me out. There was Merry Christmases and kisses exchanged all round. It seemed that anyone who walked by me wanted to kiss me and tell me welcome. I know I will look back and think that was the day I started to be accepted, it was very cool and I think with time I will see it was the best Christmas present I could have gotten.

A Little Bit of Drama

One of the main challenges since I have been in Samoan has been dealing with establish appropriate relationships. I have been tentative to write about it but as it seems it is going to be a persisting issue I thought I would go ahead. I have mentioned before difficulty creating professional relationships because of my smiley easy to laugh nature, well it has also had other consequences. I have made a very big effort to avoid contact with any Samoan men in any social way as it for one is not appropriate for men and women to socialize, but I also don’t want it to effect my image in the village. In my training village this was difficult as I had a twenty two year old brother and he had a group of friends that would hang out at the house. I was very careful never to make conversation or “hang out” with the boys. I would just smile and say hello as I walked by never stopping to talk or responding to their questions. This was a miscalculation for me. In America or most places I have traveled this would seem polite but not overly friendly. In Samoa it seems this is like an open invitation. I proceeded to have lots problems with young men in the village getting my number from my brother or just stealing my phone if it was left on the table and just taking it. There was a great deal of love texts sent and none I responded to. This didn’t seem to be a deterrent either. It wasn’t until I was blatantly rude did it at least lessen. This came to a head in my training village when one of my peers on the staff at school got my number from somewhere and started pursuing me. The texts were much more elaborate as his English as practically fluent and he took to calling me at all hours of the night. Again I never answer or responded, until final I text him and said I was not interested and please don’t contact me again. This didn’t seem to have any effect. It wasn’t until he started coming around my house and coming to the volleyball game I played in and trying to confront me that, this went from an annoyance to a problem.  I couldn’t joke this of anymore, this man was making me even more uncomfortable and out of control then I already was. I had a talk and small break down with my instructor. I just kept telling her that I didn’t understand, “what am I doing to encourage this,” “why aren’t the other girls getting this” “I have been so careful.” The other girl volunteers were able to talk to and even socialize with boys and weren’t having this problem. She calmed me down and just told me to be patient and they would eventually get bored and leave me alone. She was right of course and after a couple of weeks the teacher stopped calling. I just realized that something about me made me approachable no matter how removed I made myself from the opposite sex. I hoped that my new village would be different. This is when the drama came into play. One the second night I was awoken in the middle of the night by some one at my window calling my name. My bed is right next to the window all that was separating me from the voice was the mosquito screen and some chicken wire. The voice was whispering my name and telling me to out side because he wanted to see me. It was speaking perfect English and calling me by my English name. At first I was to scared to speak at first but I had gasped when I woke up so he new I was awake. Eventually I got up the courage to tell him to leave. He wouldn’t and then he got very sad saying he thought I would remember him. I said I didn’t and he needed to leave or I was waking up my family, he didn’t. Eventually I went into my sister’s room and woke her up. The man ran away when she turned on our outside lights but when she went to wake my other family members he came back and started calling my name again. When my sister and brother in law came from next door he ran off again. This is a major infraction in Samoan and a huge crossing of lines. My host brother in law wanted to take it to the council of chiefs but couldn’t with out a name and I didn’t now who it was. All I knew was that it must have been someone I met on my visit to Samatau a couple of weeks before as he expected me to remember him and it was someone who spoke very good English. I’m sure there was no intent for harm and it was just a misguided romantic gesture, but I know sleep with the outside light on. There have been no repeat incidences and now the whole village is looking out for me. I feel perfectly safe and there was a report filled with Peace Corp. Hopefully with time here in the village the novelty of the palagi girl with fade and this wont be a problem. It’s not uncommon for things like this to happen to Peace Corp girls here but it never really escalates as I said before I sure some very misguided man though he was being romantic. I just hope that future romantic gestures are aimed at someone else. So as I stated in my earlier blog, I am going to reserve the smiles and now am going to avoid even making eye contact with the opposite sex.

My New Home

My room

I am writing this blog from my new home in Samatau. Moving out was a crazy and difficult day. The volunteers that are going to be working on Savaii had to get up at 4:30 a.m. to catch the Ferry and we didn’t even really get to say goodbye. The Upolu group was a slow trickle as families were coming anytime before one-ish to pick us up. One by one we all packed up, helped move each other’s stuff, then hugged goodbye. It would be another two weeks before we all saw each other again. In home time two weeks doesn’t seem like much I know but imagine what it feels like here. To be honest, it felt a lot like loosing my safety net and jumping anyway. It was an emotional day and when my family came it was hard to say goodbye to everyone. Then it was into my new host uncle’s car for the long ride out to Samatau. This of course greatly worsened by the epic headache I had as payment for to much post swearing in celebrating.  By the time we got there it was mid-afternoon and traditional naptime, or malolo. I was hugely grateful I needed time to regroup before facing anyone. I have learnt in my years of traveling that the best way to feel settled somewhere is get your things out, organized, and put in there new places. It may not really make your room homey but it makes it yours. So instead of napping, as I probably should have done, I went about claiming my room; bags unpacked, clothes and things organized, stocking and reindeer antlers displayed, and everything in its new place. Seeing as I don’t really have much and I didn’t buy anything for my new place it didn’t take long or make much of a difference in the appearance of the room, but now I could imagine my self here, using my things, getting into a routine. It was a start. Then I did take a quick cat nap before facing the rest of my family. I live in a house with three other women. My mother is 68 named Millie and is a seamstress. She has had and raised eight kids and is now raising two more, which she adopted. In Samoa it is very common for family members to adopt other family members. In this case it a niece and a granddaughter who she now calls her daughters. The eldest of the two is Seleta and she is the librarian at my new school. She is twenty-five and had been instrumental in helping to find my place here as a young adult instead of the child I would have been categorized as if it was merely my age as an indicator. The younger daughter is Sicilia and she is twenty-one, she is closer to my age and you might think would be a better behavioral model. This is definitely not true as she is very much in the child category. She has no job and stays at the house doing household choirs. There is a very interesting age phenomenon here where many girls look much older then they are, but very little maturing happens between the ages of fifteen and early twenties as their role in society stays the exact same. The change comes when the girl is either married or gets a job outside of the house. My host sister from Lotofaga performed the same household tasks as Sicilia and acted much the same, but was eight years here junior. This is purely based on my experiences and observations and I am fully aware is a generalization and could be completely incorrect. I also have an older sister in her late forties that lives with her husband in the house right next to ours. They eat meals with us and basically live here in every sense except for actually sleeping. I have a wonderful big room and my house is nice clean, and pretty big for Samoan standards; three bedrooms to baths (indoor WOW), kitchen (the indoor western kind WOWx2), dinning area, and living room. They have conveniences that are definitely not average here in Samoa including the first microwave I have seen in a home. There are mosquito screens on all the windows so I don’t even have to sleep under a net and I have only seen one cockroach the whole time I have been here. I was really worried about not being about to cook for myself but my family actually makes me really good food and I even get some fruit and veggies, so thing are definitely looking up. I have also decided that two years of learning not to be so obsessed with food is probably a good thing. As my mother says you must eat to live, not live to eat. So I’m going to beat my cravings for pesto, peppered salami, kalamata olives, and delicious cheeses, into submission. My first impressions of my new home are that it is definitely more Western and possibly has a hirer income level then my training village. There is a lot more English spoken and many of the residence have jobs in town that they commute to. The five major churches in town are nicer then most back in the states. The one I go to is community church and has; two sound systems, two laptops, a projector, a sound board, wireless microphones, and the sermons are televised. It’s in a huge band new building complete with stain glass, vaulted ceiling, and beautiful inlays and decorations. This doesn’t come as much of a surprise as most Samoans devote an incredible amount of time and exorbitant amounts of money, where they can afford it or not, into their churches. There are still definitely lower income families in my village and as you get to the out skirts of the village you can see a difference in the standard of living, but over all I am living the high life, nice clean safe house and not really any physical hardships. I just keep asking myself what can I offer this village that has microwaves and wireless microphones. I guess I will start with English and see what happens.

Swearing Inn and the End of Pledge-ship

My Matching dress

My Family

My teacher and training

Swearing in, what we all worked toward since Oct. 5th. The day came with as much apprehension as it did joy, we all knew that swearing in meant that we were separating and moving out to our sites the next day. The girls all dresses made and looked like a bunch of gorgeous green apple lollypops. It was held at the Change de Fairs house, the place we had Thanksgiving. Two members of our host families from the training villages were invited to come. My host mother and sister came to watch me “graduate” as that is the closest Samoan equivalent. We did two oaths, one inside where we swore allegiance to America and another outside in front of the audience and press (yes it was televised, this is a small island). In this second oath we swore to integrate, respect and to the best of our ability create positive change. It was great fun and all of our host families seemed very proud to have been part of it, which is only fair since most everything I learned about Samoan culture was from staying with them for six weeks. They covered us with candy and flower lays in celebration our achievement and we all sat down to some tasty food. It was quite serial and over quite quickly. We got in the bus to head back to the hotel and all kind of turned to each other and said “Did that just happen? Did we just become volunteers?” I was in sorority in College, which I loved and through it met my two best friends, but let me just say going through what was an oddly similar second pledge-ship was not always a picnic. Now we are full blown volunteers. We get to go into the office, use the library, the resources, and best of all we get to go into the resource room (which is just a fancy way to say volunteer club house). Now when I come into town I get to use my cool new secret code to get into the office, use the computers, check out books…. and lets not forget the crème de le crème, the hard drive. There is a communal hard-drive in the clubhouse that has more movies and TV series then you could imagine YAY! Just to be fair it is also full of educational resources but those aren’t as exciting as Glee and True Blood. So lets just say it’s nice to be one the other side. It was a great time and it was fun to share it with my group members and now it’s off to my new village. Ready or not, here I come. 

Goals in Samoa

As I am a believer in accountability I thought it might be good for me to list some of my goals while here in Samoa and hopefully in two years I will be able to look back and say I have accomplished them all.

1. Read books to grow not just for pleasure
2. Read the Bible
3. Keep up my basic Spanish and French as well as Samoan
4. See New Zealand and Australia (this could be after service too)
5. Keep active and healthy
6. Bungee jump
7. Get a Samoan traditional tattoo
8. Absorb and see all that Samoa has to offer
9. Be inspired and inspire
10. Celebrate small victories (my number one strategy for staying sane along with patience)